Student Services

Cultural Introduction

• Introduction
  Social Life
  Religion
  Food & Mealtime Etiquette
  Dress
  Making Friends
  Social Relations
  Women's Concerns
  Shopping and Medicines

Introduction:

Yemen is an ancient land with a proud history that dates back over 3,000 years. Yemen is mentioned in the Bible (as the land of the Queen of Sheba) and the Quran, and is the landscape for one of the stories of "A Thousand and One Nights". Among the ancient civilizations that ruled in Yemen are the Sabaeans and the Himyarites. After the spread of Islam, the most important rulers in Yemen were the Zaydis and the Ottomans. With the modern period of Yemeni history came political instability and disunity. The north was ruled by an Imamate until 1962, while the south was part of the British Empire until 1967. Throughout the 1970s and the 1980s Yemen remained split, but in 1990 was reunified and the Republic of Yemen was declared in May 1990.

The topography of Yemen is the most varied of any country in the Arabian Peninsula, and northern Yemen is known as the "Roof of Arabia" for its spectacular mountains. The capital, Sana'a, sits at the center of the Sana'a basin at an altitude of 2250 meters. The weather in Sana'a is quite pleasant throughout the year, with the rainy seasons extending from April to June and August to September. To the west, toward the coast, the mountains give way to the Tihama, a long strip of coastal plane, which is quite hot and humid especially during the summer months. To the south and east extends the Hadramaut, which gives way in the east to the southern portion of Al-Rub Al-Khali (the Empty Quarter).

The architecture in Yemen is quite varied from region to region and from city to city. Sana'a, Shibam and Thula are three cities listed by UNESCO on its World Heritage list. Most Sana'ani houses will feature a mafraj, which is where social life for the family for friends takes place. The mafraj is basically a sitting room, and many hours are spent there talking, smoking, or chewing qat, often simultaneously. In the rural areas of Yemen, virtually all houses will feature a mafraj, and if traveling in these areas, foreigners will generally be invited to join a family for lunch or for a qat chew.

Though Yemen is a developing country attempting to modernize, it is still a tribal-based, conservative Islamic society. Yemen, however, is probably the only such country to welcome foreigners on a regular basis. Foreigners, therefore, are expected to act accordingly and respect the values and social mores of Yemen. Yemenis will certainly respect someone who attempts to "fit in" to society much more than someone who continues to "stick out".

Social Life:

A number of Islamic religious holidays fall throughout the year, as well as special occasions such as weddings, and the typical (but distinctly Yemeni) tradition of the qat chew. These occasions require some knowledge on your part of customary gestures or phrases, many of which you will learn simply from experience. There are a few points, however, which should be mentioned here.

The most important religious event a foreigner is likely to encounter in Yemen is Ramadan, the holy month of fasting. During this time all muslims (except children, the sick, and the elderly) abstain from food, drinking, smoking, and sexual activity during daylight hours. As the Islamic calendar is lunar rather than solar, the time of Ramadan falls eleven days earlier each successive yesar. From dawn until sunset, most Yemenis will be fasting from the aforementioned activities. The evening brings celebrations and the breaking of the fast, known as iftar. Such feasting and merry-making often lasts until dawn. Although you are not required to observe the fast, eating, drinking, and smoking around those who are is, of course, inconsiderate. Thus, during Ramadan, such activities should be confined to the privacy of your own home. At the beginning and conclusion of Ramadan, small gifts may be given to children. It is also appropriate to bring gifts of sweets to families who have invited you to their iftar. When giving gifts, offer them with your right hand, or with both hands. Presents are not usually opened in the company of the giver.

Weddings are tremendously joyous occasions in Yemen and you may feel honored if you have been invited to one. Parties for men and women are almost always held separately, and generally speaking, members of the opposite sex are not invited to the other's ceremony. Both parties generally consist of an afternoon spent socializing with the bride or groom in their home. Afterwards, their friends gather to sing religious songs, songs in praise of the bride or groom and his/her family, and dance before the bride or groom go to their families. Just as Yemenis will arrive for the wedding clothed in their finest attire, so should foreign guests dress in the formal, but comfortable, clothing from their country of origin. They will be seen as having made a gesture of great respect.

A few additional points deserve mention here. Note that married couples visiting a home together may be separated soon after arrival, the male guest sitting with his male host(s) and the female guest with her female hostess(es). In these situations, married couples may be expected to understand subtle hints or suggestions by the host, which propose to separate them into two groups. Unmarried couples visiting a home should exercise discretion; indeed, considering the rarity of friendships between unmarried men and women in Yemen, the advisability of such visits under most circumstances is questionable. One should also always take off his/her shoes when entering most Yemeni homes, and definitely when entering a mafraj. Also, keep in mind that not all invitations must or should be accepted. Offering an invitation is a feature of Arab culture, but one should consider before accepting whether the host will be inconvenienced beyond politeness.

Religion:

The majority religion in Yemen is Islam. Minority communities (mostly ex-pats) of Christians, Jews, and some Hindus also exist. A great number of Yemeni muslims are of the Zaydi sect of Shi'a Islam, though a substantial number of Sunni muslims are also present. It is assumed theat students going to Yemen will have some prior knowledge of Islam, although several books for the beginning student are widely available.

As a foreign visitor, people will naturally be curious about you and may often inquire about your religious persuasion. In Yemen this is not considered an intrusive or impolite question, so a reaction that indicates offense on your part may insult the person inquiring. In these situations, the best response is to be as direct as possible, although replies such as "I don't believe in God" may be met with incredulity or genuine shock. The rule here is to tread sensitively, and if someone tries to argue or debate with you over religious differences, refuse politely. Most Yemenis - the vast majority, in fact - will treat you no differently for being a non-Muslim. Indeed, the Quran enjoins believers to treat Jews and Christians with friendliness and respect, as these "people of the Book" are followers of the holy tradition, which Islam springs from and completes, and are religious cousins to Muslims.

As a foreigner, remember that the obligation to assimilate culturally is, for better or for worse, place squarely on you. Therefore, emphasizing religious differences between foreigners and Yemenis, or between Christians, Muslims, or Jews will only render your task more difficult. Proselytizing on the part of any religious group is forbidden, so students with strong feelings about their particular religion are advised for their own benefit not to share them aloud.

Most mosques in Sana'a are closes to non-Muslims, although it appears that this restriction is not universally enforced. An individual who wishes to enter a mosque should ask first. If he/she wishes to take photographs he/she should again inquire to see if this is permitted. Both men and women should always remove their shoes before entering a mosque, and women should cover their hair. Of course, persons wearing inappropriate clothing will not be admitted to a mosque.

There is a single church in Sana'a supported by the expatriate community, where several major Christian denominations offer worship services at separate times. Small Christian study/discussion groups composed of expatriate residents also exist, and welcome new members. There are presently no functioning synagogues in Sana'a, although diminishing communities of Jews can still be found living to the north of the capital, near the city of Sa'ada. At last report, the Jewish community in Sa'ada numbered 500 people, down from 2,000 only a few years ago.

Food and Mealtime Etiquette:

Not surprisingly, Yemeni food and eating customs vary - often quite widely - from region to region. Generally speaking, however, the noontime meal is the largest and most important of the day. Breakfasts and dinners tend to be smaller and less elaborate than the typical lunch. In most major cities, you will find Yemeni, Arab, and foreign-style restaurants at different levels of price and quality.

Restaurants tend to be most crowded during lunch, or from about 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Most establishments close for the afternoon, reopening at 5:00 and serving dinner until approximately 10:00 p.m. All but the most expensive restaurants insist on cash payment, though even in hotels you will want to pay cash, as the exchange rate on credit cards is extremely unfavorable.

Before sitting down at a table, it is customary in Yemen to first wash your hands. Sinks are provided for this purpose in every restaurant. One always eats with the right hand, as the left (reserved for washing oneself) is considered unclean. This custom takes on added importance in Yemen, since in most restaurants food is eaten without utensils. The same table manners you would practice at home are generally applicable in Yemen as well: blowing one's nose, loud speech, or belching during a meal are all considered impolite.

In Sana'a, there are several famous and popular dishes you will want to try. Salta is a meat or chicken broth with fenugreek and vegetables served in a superheated stone bowl, and eaten with special flat, flaky bread. There are numerous types of salta available, and some restaurants, as you will discover, are more popular than others for their particular recipe. Other typical dishes include fuul (a mixture of fava beans, tomato, onion, and spices), grilled or boiled chicken, grilled fresh fish, fried eggplant, rice, yogurt, various types of salads, okra, and ground garbanzo bean paste known as hummus. Traditional desserts include custard dishes, and various kinds of sweetened and unsweetened pastries. Yemeni coffee, although expensive and sometimes difficult to find, is deservedly the most famous inthe Arab world. Best of all, the juice stands which colorfully punctuate every street in Sana'a serve rich, delicious fresh fruit juices at a minimal cost.

As in other social situations, the space in restaurants for men and women is dictated by Yemeni social customs. Many restaurants will have a "family room", which should be used by women, either alone or accompanied by men. Women should avoid entering restaurants that do not have a "family room". At no time should a woman smoke in a restaurant, even if there are ashtrays on the tables.

Dress:

Dress requirements for men and women are extremely important in Yemen, so it is indispensable that foreigners take as much care as possible when selecting clothes to bring to Yemen. Awareness of general sensitivities on the subject of dress is essential for relating to people without inadvertently causing offense, or inviting unwanted attention upon yourself. If you choose to wear Yemeni-style clothing, be aware that the way you move, sit, and carry yourself will certainly be different from any Yemeni person and may cause offense to Yemeni men or women. Wearing loud colors or fancy items should be avoided, as this without a doubt will make you "stick out" in public. Also, you should be aware especially of the manner in which you are sitting, say in a mafraj. The best advice is to look to a Yemeni as a model for appropriate decorum. Remember that your outward appearance is seen as a reflection of your private self, and that inappropriate clothing will discourage many Yemenis from attempting to communicate with you.

Men are expected to wear either pants or jeans, without holes. T-shirts are acceptable, although the sleeveless variety is inappropriate. Shorts are unacceptable at any time. Long hair (particularly on men who do not wear a beard or mustache) will elicit occasional puzzled looks or questions, and may invite some teasing or mildly provocative comments.

For women, pants or jeans should be covered by a long, full skirt especially when traveling in rural areas of the country. T-shirts are passable, although generally speaking any article of clothing, which might remotely be considered revealing is of questionable use in Yemen. Light, translucent materials, or tight clothing, which reveal much of a woman's form are also problematic. Women are recommended therefore to bring long full skirts (no slits) and blouses as a practical complement to the T-shirts and jeans they might be accustomed to wearing at home. Foreign women are not expected to cover their hair, except when entering mosques or other religious places. Shorts, or short skirts, and sleeveless and/or form-fitting tops are altogether unacceptable and may cause a woman some trouble in public places. Heavy make-up is highly discouraged as most women, in Sana'a especially, go without any make-up. Some foreign women do choose to wear the Yemeni baltu, but if you choose to wear it, you should be aware that there is a certain way to carry yourself in public when wearing such clothing. Should a woman choose to wear a baltu, she is still expected to dress conservatively underneath if she will be removing the outer cloak during class (shorts, sleeveless shirts, low necklines, etc. are considered inappropriate dress for class). When in the house, the students may choose to wear whatever they wish, but in public (including classrooms), conservative dress should be the fashion. The teachers at the Yemen Language Center are Yemenis, and while they do have experience with westerners, they nonetheless deserve the same respect as Yemenis you would run into in the street.

For men and women, generally speaking, clothing should be conservative and modest. If you are unsure as to the appropriateness of a particular article of clothing, the best advice is to leave it at home. Erring on the side of the cautious and conservative will serve you unfailingly. Proper dress will help you earn the respect of Yemenis who will understand that you have attempted to take notice of their social sensitivities and adapt yourself accordingly; improper clothing will have the opposite effect.

Making Friends:

Foreigners, for reasons of shyness perhaps, or uncertainty about the expectations and obligations friendship with Yemenis entail, often have some initial difficulty in meeting and making friends. Fortunately, these problems are easily overcome, because individuals who are friendly and open will easily make Yemeni friends and acquaintances. Yemenis, especially young people, are enthusiastic to meet their foreign counterparts and share their lives and interests. Indeed, it is completely normal for a friendly Yemeni to approach you on the street and strike up a conversation with you (although it bears mentioning again that this type of contact between members of the opposite sex is generally regarded as inappropriate). You are encouraged to pursue and cultivate these contacts, and to seek out opportunities to meet and converse with Yemenis (in Arabic, of course). Some suggestions for meeting people are: visits to the hammam (public bath), Sana'a University, public parks and gardens, teahouses and small Yemeni hotels, restaurants, and the suq (marketplace). You will have numerous opportunities for attending qat chews, weddings, and other social occasions. Take advantage of these opportunities to meet and speak with Yemenis in their own environment; your efforts will be generously repaid in warm friendships and improved Arabic skills. However, one should always be aware of the context of the frienship, as there are some people (as in any country) who will try to take advantage of you.

Social Relations:

Relations between men and women, particularly unmarried men and women, are subject to scrutiny throughout Yemen. You will notice immediately that virtually all women in Sana'a are covered by the long and formless baltu or sharshaf, which leaves no part of the body visible to the eye. Foreign women are not expected to dress in this manner, but they should be prepared to act while in public in a reserved manner, consistent with Yemeni values. Women are expected to conduct themselves publicly with a certain degree of conservatism and reserve, and should dress appropriately - that is, long sleeves and long skirts, and not smoke in public, not use headphones in public. To a lesser degree the same is true for foreign men, especially in the presence of women. Shorts, along with tight skirts, blouses, or pants, are totally inappropriate in Yemen.

For foreigners coming from North America or Europe, it is entirely normal to have friends and acquaintances of the opposite sex. In many parts of Yemen, however, such frienships are essentially abnormal and frowned upon. It would be very unusual, and indeed viewed as quite improper, for a young man and woman to be familiar or close friends. You should not expect, therefore, to have many (if any) good Yemeni friends of the opposite sex. This is somewhat less true for foreign women, who are not expected to observe all the rules, which govern the behavior of Yemeni women. For them it will be somewhat easier to make friends of the opposite sex, although these relationships will necessarily be somewhat formal in nature. Within the confines of the Yemen Language Center, there is a good deal of interaction between men and women involving teachers and students. While these relationships are essentially friendly, they should nonetheless maintain a degree of professionalism and should certainly conform to the cultural/social standards of Yemen. Relations between westerners are a private matter and should be conducted as such.

Questions posed to Yemeni men concerning the female members of their household are generally considered embarrassing and rude. On most visits to a Yemeni home, in fact, where the male head of the household is the host, the female members of the family will not be introduced to guests, or even visible to them. It is important to remark, however, that important exceptions to this custom do exist, most often in wealthy, highly-educated, or consciously non-traditional families. When foreign men come into contact with Yemeni women, they should generally let her take the initiative to shake hands, start conversation that extends beyond common pleasantries, and so forth. But for the most part, as long as men regard the social distance understood to exist between men and women, and avoid mannerisms, which suggest familiarity or intimacy, they should experience no problems.

Among Yemeni women, foreign women can freely discuss almost any subject, including husbands or male family members. Indeed, this is often a frequent topic of conversation among groups of women. Foreign women are typically free to shake hands or start conversations with men in professional settings, though again they should maintain a sense of discretion and decorum. In social situations, however, foreign women should allow men to establish the degree of contact they feel is comfortable - and more importantly - appropriate. Women who project an air of confidence and comfort in these situations will encounter little difficulty or awkwardness. However, both men and women should always maintain a sense of what is appropriate, as some people (both foreign and Yemeni) will try to overstep these bounds.

Interactions between foreign men and women in public should essentially conform to Yemeni standards of conduct. Specifically, intimate or affectionate behavior, such as holding hands or kissing, is absolutely forbidden in public, and will earn the offending couple an extremely negative response from bystanders. In addition, calling late in the evening at the home of a friend of the opposite sex, or spending the night there, will likely offend residents of the neighborhood. Indeed, it is not unknown in Yemen for foreigners who have behaved insensitively to find their homes vandalized, or their laundry stolen from the line, in an expression of their neighbor's displeasure. Some such reactions from Yemenis might be more subtle, but nonetheless will be felt by the offender, and the larger non-Yemeni community. These incidents are rare, but foreIgners should nevertheless be conscious and exacting in their public behavior, and expect the same of their peers. The missteps of a few foregners can reflect on the larger group, obsuring the genuine effort most non-Yemenis make to assimilate into Yemeni life, and obstructing the ability of researchers and field workers to conduct their work in Yemen.

Women's Concerns:

The place of women in Yemen may appear for foreign eyes limited and restrictive, but it does offer security; women's bodies are absolutely sacrosanct and inviolable. However, one should realize that especially in the crowded suqs contact will occur between men and women in passing and this should not be considered harassment. Foreign women are able to move freely through any part of the city without difficulty, and are welcome in any public establishment, even those mainly frequented by men, such as large restaurants. However, it is clear that opportunists take advantage of crowded situations and you may wish to take care and be alert when in particularly busy areas of Sana'a such as Bab Al-Yemen or Suq Al-Milh. When taking a local taxi, a woman should always ride in the back seat and be sure the doors work from the inside, and on buses a woman may expect other passengers to offer their seats to her, often next to another woman. The same is usually the case when traveling on inter-city taxis and buses. Likewise, a woman traveling by herself outside of Sana'a should experience little difficulty, though of course the same precautions she would take at home should also be applied in Yemen. Hitchhiking should be avoided and unsolicited rides declined. In hotels, a woman should insist on a single room, preferably near other foreign travelers. Especially in small villages, conservative dress is essential. More than hard rules or advice, however, a woman traveling in Yemen is advised to rely on simple common sense, consideration, and awareness of local customs.

Tampons are not available in Yemen therefore women are advised to bring their own supply with them to Yemen. Sanitary napkins are widely available throughout Yemen. Additionally, a supply of medication for simple yeast infections and other common gynecological problems also should be brought from home, when possible. Upon request, your embassy in Sana'a can provide you with a list of reputable local physicians practicing women's health and gynecology.

Shopping and Medicines:

Pharmacies stock both generic medicines and toilet items such as soap, shampoo, and toilet paper. Widely used prescription drugs such as Penicillin, Choloroquine (largely ineffective against malaria in Yemen), and Insulin, imported from Europe or manufactured under the supervision of American or European drug companies in Egypt or Jordan, are also available in Yemeni pharmacies. However, many specialty drugs may be hard to find, so students coming to Yemen are advised to bring a sufficient supply of prescription drugs for personal use.

The main suq, or market, in the old city of Sana'a reveals to any in the Arab World for variety, colors, smells, or beauty. The suq spreads itself over a wide area in the central section of the old city. It is divided into different areas according to the products or handicrafts sold there: hence once finds a jambiyya suq, silver suq, gold suq, spice suq, housewares suq, shoe suq, or textile suq, and so on. Many old and beautiful handmade boxes, carpets, and jewelry are found in the old city, though students are advised to check prices in many stores before deciding on a large purchase.

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